Isabel Marant, Isabelle Hubpert, and LOEWE’s Show-on-the-Wall! Your Essential PFW Talking Points
Here’s your crib sheet to the Paris Fashion Week happenings you may have been sleeping on….
I was waiting all of Paris Fashion Week to feel something, and I finally experienced a little heart fluttering thanks to Isabel Marant. And no, it wasn’t just because of the disco remix of Donna Summers’ I Feel Love that models stomped down the Palais Royal to—although even the thought that a club night, and club-worthy clothes, might happen again was enough to send my endorphins racing. The OG outfitter of Paris’ coolest girls put on a show, that’s for sure. The Marant silhouette and aesthetic is so unmistakable at this stage (the label turned 30 last year!) and refreshingly, save for a pair of slick leather track pants, the designer didn’t bow to pressure to tone down her wares for a WFH-appropriate lifestyle. Instead, she served up sequin matador jackets, cowboy shirts, leg of mutton sleeve minidresses, and her inimitable take on 1980s power dressing. The collection was mainly executed in metallics, fire engine red, fuchsia, and cobalt—with a healthy dose of far-from-boring black and white options too. While the models made their way down the runway to the infectious music, they were flanked by dancers from the dance collective (La)Horde, whose own clothing seemed to change color palette in synch. We can’t wait ’til we’re all able to feel that same harmonious beat.
See the full collection below:
JW Anderson presented Spring Summer ’21 as a, quote-unquote, “Show-on-the-Wall”. Allow us to explain: the LOEWE womenswear collection was delivered in three-meter boxes to the usual audience in their homes. Inside, ‘guests’ found sheet music for a choral work by Thomas Tallis, a letter from Anderson, a paper scroll of models wearing the new collection, a roll of wallpaper designed by Turner Prize-winning British artist, Anthea Hamilton, a paintbrush, scissors, a canvas tool bag, and a ceramic. With their senses piqued, the idea was that folks could then assemble the content on a wall themselves. As if the presentation format wasn’t impressive enough; then there were the actual clothes. Balloon-leg trousers, oversized broderie anglaise dresses with XL collars, ruched bubble hems overlaid with tulle. There’s an old adage, “Go big or go home.” With this impressive collection reveal concept, Anderson didn’t have to chose. He brought his giant, playful proportions right into your home.
See the concept, and the collection, below (wallpaper by Anthea Hamilton):
Believe it or not, Rick Owens was the only one to send his models down the runway in masks. And furthermore, the collection’s racy fishnet dresses were even up-cycled from the masks models wore in his fall 2012 show. The designer had a ‘grim gaiety’ on his mind, as per his show notes, and models looked suitable prepped for these conflicting ideals. While there was no shortage of signatures—slim-fitting destructed tailoring, leather, and, strong shoulders—there were also little moments of uplifting joy in the Pepto Bismol-pink hues and the surprising addition of sequins.
See the full collection below:
We stan an iconic French actress showing up in a fashion film, so when Isabelle Huppert—the Queen of chic herself—appeared in Roger Vivier’s Hotel Vivier Cinémathèque, we were rightly floored. The maison has innate ties to film (its founder designed shoes for Marlene Dietrich, Ava Gardner, and Catherine Deneuve, after all) so creative director Gherardo Felloni wanted to nod to that while revealing the Spring Summer ’21 collection. The interactive short ties together a myriad of cinematic and pop culture references, and guarantees an unforgettable discovery of the new footwear and accessories.
Watch it below: